A good meal can become perfect with a delicious glass of wine. For a perfect pairing, we turned to Wine Director Jillian Riley from NoMi Kitchen {Park Hyatt Chicago; 800 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago; 312.239.4030}. Joining the team after a successful tenure at RPM Italian, Riley is putting her own spin on the well-known wine program at the Park Hyatt. Above the hustle and bustle of Michigan Avenue, Riley is pouring out wisdom and delicious flavors.
DiningOut: How have you put your personal touch on the wine program at NoMi?
Jillian Riley: Traditionally, NoMI Kitchen’s wine list has represented many classic producers. I did not want to veer away from the classics—there is, after all, a reason they have attained these places in history—but I did want to shine a light on some lesser-known producers doing some really exceptional work. It was very important to me to offer exceptional quality in a variety of price points. I have also made the commitment that I will seek out wines that are both responsibly farmed and offer fair treatment to their workers.
Photo via Park Hyatt
Some people are intimidated by choosing a wine. How can we approach this decision for the first time?
First of all, don’t worry about what the sommelier or wine shop clerk thinks about you. Remember, we would not have jobs if people did not have questions about wine. Don’t worry about using the right words. The best thing you can do is tell them what wines you have had in the past and liked. This plus what you are eating (if you want to take that into consideration) should be all we need to help you select a bottle you will enjoy.
What would you say to someone who says they’re just a white wine or red wine person?
Really, there is no one who can tell you what you should or should not like. However, there are some people who maybe just have not yet found the whites or reds they enjoy yet. I would want to make sure the person was aware that there were endless types of white and red wines; it isn’t just Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. There’s Refosco and Cinsault and Garganega and Moschofilero and so much more you can try!
How should we incorporate bubbly into our summer wine rotation?
MORE! Just more! First of all, you can get great bottles of bubbly for 20 bucks or less. You don’t have to spring for expensive Champagne. Tissot from the Jura region is one of my favorites, and Von Buhl’s Riesling Sekt is beautifully aromatic and delightfully dry—so incredible with food. If you want to drink a true Champagne, there are some incredible value small producer “grower” Champagnes out there. Think about all of these wines not only as aperitifs but as a wine that can pair beautifully with food. I love taking bubbles with me to BYOB sushi, and they can be great with Chinese take-out on the couch. After all, who doesn’t want an excuse to drink Champagne in sweat pants? I’ve also noticed that it is darn near impossible to be in a bad mood while drinking sparkling wine—I mean, really, just try to frown while bubbles are dancing across your palate. It’s impossible.
Photo via Park Hyatt
What are some wines we should try this summer?
I love a good Txakolina in summertime—it’s this awesome wine from the Basque country with this great little spritz and a cool saline quality. It is endlessly refreshing and perfect with summer bites like shellfish and olives. Also, domestic rosés are soaring right now! A few years ago, it was still all about Provençal rosé, which continues to be delightful, but the Americans are really having a moment right now. Rosés from places like Oregon, Sonoma, and Anderson Valley are reaching a whole new level of quality.
At NoMI, we are currently pouring Long Meadow Ranch’s rosé of Pinot Noir made by Stéphane Vivier, former winemaker of Hyde de Villaine, and I am thrilled that we will soon be offering the rosé from Lingua Franca, the new brainchild of Master Sommelier Larry Stone. I recently had the opportunity to visit the winery, and they are doing some immensely compelling work. If you are looking to spoil yourself rotten with a rosé that plays with the big kid wines, try Maggie Harrison’s “Angelicall” from Antica Terra. Just don’t blame me if you can never come back from it. It’s a brave new rosé world.
What is your favorite wine on the NoMi menu and what meal would you pair it with?
This is like asking a parent to pick a favorite child—it’s impossible for me to pick just one! I can say I have a definite soft spot for one of our glass pours, Scherrer Cabernet Sauvignon 2013. It’s pretty rare for a sommelier to say she is absolutely mad over a domestic Cabernet, but Fred Scherrer is able to showcase such an elegance and complexity in this wine; drinking it is truly a unique experience. I love pairing it with Chef’s Rack of Lamb finished with Madeira jus. I wouldn’t typically pair a Cabernet with a lamb rack, but the tannins are so beautifully integrated here that it actually makes a lot of sense. There is also a delicious plushy plum quality to the wine, which complements the Madeira jus perfectly.
How would you describe the Chicago food and wine scene?
Welcoming! I came from a background in theatre and film, and I started in New York, so I became used to cutthroat pretty quickly. One of my favorite things about becoming a sommelier has been how incredibly welcoming the community has been. It isn’t so much about competition here. We love to be inspired by one another, and we are so lucky to have a city full of people who love to dine out. It means there is room for all of us to be successful. We are all cheering each other on, pushing one another forward. I think this has a lot to do with how Chicago has developed such a progressive restaurant scene, while still having a classic Midwestern hospitality vibe. I truly believe that to offer the top tier of hospitality, you have to be living it each day toward colleagues, as well as guests.
By Kaleigh Glaza, Online Editor
The post In the Wine Room with Jillian Riley from NoMi Kitchen appeared first on DiningOut Chicago.