When the West Loop neighborhood saw its first earnest development in the 1990s, the pull was cost more than location. And yet, that was enough to start drawing notoriety; Harpo Studios was the first boon for the community when it became the home of Oprah Winfrey’s talk show. And while it paled in comparison to its current glory, Randolph Street and its surrounds saw an influx of restaurants, businesses, and shops shortly thereafter—slowly shifting away from a former life as a hub of meatpacking plants and storage facilities.
In the culinary sphere, the West Loop has seen a wealth of mainstays and avant-garde pioneers alike. “Blackbird was a pioneer of sorts in the West Loop,” says David Barriball, general manager of the restaurant, the One Off Hospitality group flagship. One Off is also behind area stalwarts avec, The Publican, and Publican Quality Meats. “It was a much different scene when we opened in December of 1997—there were only a handful of restaurants on Randolph Street and it was a slightly seedier part of town,” he adds. “Now, the combination of hotel, residential, and retail expansion is amazing.”
Photo via El Che Bar
“I doubt that there is a concentration of such ambitious and accomplished restaurants anywhere in the United States,” adds Chef/Owner John Manion of La Sirena Clandestina and El Che Bar. “As for Fulton, I’ve never seen anything like it. Last year at this time, the meatpackers were still at work.”
Time marches on, as they say, and mainstay restaurants are being joined by a near-endless stream of newcomers. That includes standouts like Latin American hotspot Ronero and its upper-level speakeasy, Esco Bar. Set within a designated historic building, Ronero’s façade—like many of the existing neighborhood buildings—was protected from any major overhaul. And while structures juxtapose new talent and old landmarks, talent remains at the fore; Chef/Owner Sarah Grueneberg of Monteverde, a West Loop hotspot, took home a James Beard Award this year for Best Chef Great Lakes while noted talents like Stephanie Izard and Curtis Duffy continue to draw praise from local and national media.
Photo via Monteverde
“My hope is even with the influx of residences, restaurants, businesses, and shops, we’ll somehow keep the local, neighborhood vibe alive,” says Nils Westlind, Ronero’s managing partner.
As a way of gauging just how far the West Loop has come, we tip our hats (and dedicate our appetites) to the many restaurants that are shaping its bright future.
RANDOLPH STREET
Ronero {738 West Randolph Street; 312.600.6105}
A cocktail and dining destination at once, this Latin American hub with an upstairs rum bar dishes up the likes of whole Fried Snapper with coconut-cola rice and fried plantains.
Blackbird {619 West Randolph Street; 312.715.0708}
Paul Kahan’s flagship restaurant serves farm-driven dishes, tasting menus, and one of the best set-price daytime meals around. Standouts include Hiramasa Tartare with snap peas, yuzo kosho, and puffed wild rice; and licorice-accented, roasted Lamb Saddle with boudin blanc, English pea panisse, and pickled shrimp.
FULTON MARKET DISTRICT/LAKE STREET :: North of Randolph Corridor
Bang Chop Thai Kitchen {605 West Lake Street; 312.285.2800}
Find modern, comforting, and chef-driven Vietnamese fare at sleek Saigon Sisters—including Beef Phô, Bun Bo Hue, and Hanoi-inspired Whole Branzino with onions, dill, and turmeric. At the casual “sister” spot BYOB Bang Chop Thai Kitchen, the menu features more classic Thai with dishes such as Waterfall Beef Salad, Pad See Ew with Chinese broccoli, and housemade red and green curries.
Macello Ristorante {1235 West Lake Street; 312.850.9870}
Anchored by wood-burning ovens, this homey haunt specializes in upscale Italian fare, like Braciole and Seafood Risotto, all in a rustic setting punctuated by vibrant touches.
Honey’s {1111 West Lake Street; 312.877.5929}
Tucked under the El tracks, this welcoming, seasonally focused, Mediterranean-inflected American eatery serves elegant fare—like Piri-Piri Endive with romanesco, couscous, and tamarind-saffron sauce; and a spit-roasted Pork Chop with steel-cut oats, malted parsnip, and root beef jus—in sophisticated, but unfussy, surrounds.
La Sirena Clandestina {954 West Fulton Market; 312.226.5300}
Head to La Sirena Clandestina for Brazilian fare, such as hearty Feijoada and poofy Pão de Queijo.
Eden {1748 West Lake Street; 312.366.2294}
Offering a fresh take on Mediterranean and American food, with flavors from Portugal, Spain, Greece, Lebanon, Egypt, and Morocco, Eden features an on-site urban garden, which supplements its locally sourced ingredients. That translates to dishes like Pork Tagliatelle with tart apple, Marcona almonds, and arugula.
JEFFERSON AND CLINTON STREETS :: East of Randolph Corridor
Slightly Toasted {22 North Clinton Street; 312.967.2830}
Offering a best-of-both-worlds experience, this casual, offbeat spot for sweet and savory toasts, pastries, coffee, and whiskey is a welcome, all-day option—especially when you factor in dishes like Hanger Steak Tartare-topped house-baked sourdough with roasted garlic aïoli and egg.
BIN 36 {161 North Jefferson Street; 312.995.6560}
This chill wine bar and restaurant offers upwards of 50 vinos by the glass, along with a lineup of contemporary American dishes ideal for pairings, such as Ham and Cheese Croquettes; Spiced Baby Carrot Salad; and Pork Cheek Meatballs and spaghetti.
Proxi {565 West Randolph Street; 312.441.1920}
This soon-to-debut eatery affords a casual, Asian-meets-European-influenced alternative to fine-dining sibling Sepia. Featuring street food-inspired dishes turned from a wood-burning grill and coal-burning oven, Proxi will also offer a beverage program focused on global beer and cocktails made with exotic ingredients.
MADISON AND WASHINGTON STREETS :: South of Randolph Corridor
Monteverde {1020 West Madison Street; 312.888.3041}
Refined Italian fare comes in the form of small plates and family-style dishes, such as Roasted Lamb Ravioli with crispy artichokes, Manchego, and rosemary, courtesy of James Beard Award-winning Chef Sarah Grueneberg.
The Beer Bistro {1061 West Madison Street; 312.433.0013}
Come for the lively, casual vibe and stay for the massive beer list, patio seating, and familiar fare, such as a Pretzel Board with Brewski-infused Cheese, Beer-Battered Chicken Fingers, and fried, Wisconsin-Style Cheese Curds.
MAD Social {1140 West Madison Street; 312.243.2097}
Globally influenced New American fare is the focus at this Stefani-owned restaurant, which serves the likes of Duck Confit Bao Buns and Chicken and Churro Waffles with crispy pork belly.
El Che Bar {845 West Washington Boulevard; 312.265.1130}
Sibling to Fulton Market’s La Sirena Clandestina, El Che Bar delivers wood-fired Argentinean-American dishes, like Veal Sweetbreads with market escabeche and cauliflower purée; and a Bone-In Salmon Steak with dill salsa verde, fried capers, and horseradish cream. It is, as Chef/Owner John Manion paints, a canvas for “the contemporary rhythms of Buenos Aires.”
By Jennifer Olvera and Jeffrey Steen
The post The Rise of the West Loop Food Sphere appeared first on DiningOut Chicago.