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With spring in Chicago essentially being an extension of winter, it’s totally understandable to be dreaming of a decadent European vacation. But before you plan to hop a plane to France or Spain, instead, just book a table at Bar Biscay {1450 West Chicago Avenue, Chicago; 312.455.8900}. Their modern take on the small plates typically served in those European destinations, make it the perfect spot for happy hour, or to share a meal with friends. Scott Worsham, one of the owners of Bar Biscay, is giving a behind the scenes peak at their kitchen…
DiningOut: How did the vision for Bar Biscay come about?
Worsham: As time went on, we fell more and more in love with the simple approach to cooking. We really wanted to stay in that groove, but we also love French country cooking and wanted to incorporate that into the mix. It dawned on us that anchoring our food in the Basque region allows us to go up and down that whole other coast of France and Spain along the Atlantic Ocean. That body of water is known as the Bay of Biscay (literally, the Basque Bay) and offers such a bounty of delicious cuisine, most all of it very simple and direct and unfussy.
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What sets it apart in the Chicago food world?
I think staying simple and direct and un-cheffy is what makes our food stand out. Although it takes a lot of work to keep things fresh and vibrant and direct—there’s not a lot of tricks to hide behind, it’s either on point or it’s not—we don’t want the guest to see any of that. We just want them to have a great time and put down their phones.
Tell us about the balance between the Spanish and French influences on the menu.
That’s really the Basque influence. The Basque region is located partly in Spain and partly in France, so you get sort of three cuisines in one. It’s an amazing place, with a very rich history. There was whale and cod fishing in North America centuries before Columbus arrived, for example—true masters of the sea.
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What are some of your dishes on the menu?
Some of our favorites are the peas with squid sausage, the hake filet in tomato and olive-jamon sauce, and the whole oxtail. We do more normal things, too, like a beautiful half roasted chicken and a gorgeous steak frites, poutine-style.
What cocktails or wines would you pair them with?
Most of our wines are high acid wines that pair perfectly with food. If it’s seafood, we’re drinking Muscadet or Txakolina. For a heavier dish, we’re partial to some of the great Galician reds from Ribeira Sacra or perhaps a deeper tempranillo from Rioja.
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How does the bar menu enhance the food menu?
We’re very proud of our beverage program. The wine list focuses on regions found along that coast, and our rule is that if you can reach the viticultural area by rowboat, the wine can go on the list. That makes it pretty unique—I don’t know any other restaurant that focuses on the Atlantic coast.
We also want the wines to be affordable and complement the food, so we had to kiss a lot of frogs to find our princes and princesses. We also feature a unique draft program, in that we offer both white and red Basque vermouths, as well as a Basque cider and a Gin Tonic with a twist. It’s a fun place to drink.
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It also sounds like you take happy hour seriously!
We’re huge fans of late-afternoon eating and drinking. It feels totally civilized and a bit decadent all at once. Chef Johnny Anderes puts out a different set of five pintxos (the Basque version of tapas) every Tuesday through Saturday from 3-5pm for $8—it’s a great deal. Grab a plate and some cider or vermouth and you’ll instantly have made your day better.
The power of the porrón is real! A couple of times a night we’ll pass a porrón of white wine down the bar for everyone to share. That is an instant party starter.
What is your favorite thing about the Chicago food community?
I’ve lived and worked in a lot of different cities renowned for their food scenes in the last 30 years. Starting in Northern California and San Francisco, then New York City, and Washington DC, but Chicago really stands out in a unique way.
Those other cities have more of a “this is mine, you’re on your own” vibe, and here, if you need any help at all, your peers are there for you. It’s really amazing, actually. We’ve received so much help from our fellow industry professionals over the years. Ostensibly, we are trying to poach their business, and they ours, but that’s not how most industry people look at it here. It’s far more of a “rising tide raises all boats” feel. I’m kind of flabbergasted by it sometimes. There are some very, very beautiful people in the business here. Now if we could just do something about the weather…
Interview by Kaleigh Glaza | Online Editor
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