The charming brasserie is already a Chicago fixture. Its elegant, 100-seat dining room and airy lounge regularly fills with locals and out-of-towners alike, all eager for a taste of Paskewitz’s nationally lauded creations.
Indeed, to the outsider, it would seem as though the Queens-bred chef star rose in meteoric fashion when he opened The Blanchard {1935 North Lincoln Park West, Chicago; 872.829.3971}. But his success is a culmination of nearly two decades on Chicago’s dining scene, where he’s clocked time in numerous high-profile kitchens and cooked his way up the ranks from sous chef to his current title of chef/owner.
Paskewitz, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, first took an interest in French food and technique during his career’s fledgling years, at which time he staged at a handful of notable New York City restaurants. But he credits an early Chicago job with esteemed French chef Martial Noguier—for whom he worked as sous chef at the Pump Room—with nurturing that interest and turning it into a full-fledged love affair.
Following the Pump Room came stints at upscale spots including N9NE Steakhouse and the W Hotel. At the latter, Paskewitz held his first executive chef title and oversaw all of the hotel’s menus. Unsurprisingly, he found ways to incorporate some French flair into the hotel’s food offerings.
Paskewitz’s Francophilia continued to grow during a stint at Gabriel’s, a now-closed French/Italian hybrid in suburban Highwood where he manned the kitchen from 2003 to 2004. After living the corporate lifestyle at the W—and doing all the paper-pushing that comes with it—Paskewitz says his time at Gabriel’s helped redirect his focus to cooking.
Re-energized, he went on to launch a short-lived namesake, JP Bistro (“a great little spot, but in the wrong location,” he notes); then to serve as chef/partner at Lincoln Park restaurants Gemini Bistro and Rustic House. With a wealth of opening experience under his belt, Paskewitz, who admits he enjoys the excitement of debuting new restaurants, resolved to open a spot all his own. “I was ready to really do this French thing,” he says. And thus The Blanchard was born.
Here, the wayfaring chef seems to have found his home. Diners (especially the lucky few seated at the marble-topped chef’s counter) watch him in his element in the open kitchen, showcasing his skills creating French dishes that are easily recognizable yet subtly modernized.
The cuisine marries aspects of Paskewitz’s multi-ethnic New York City upbringing and lengthy resume: Standbys such as Dover Sole (“I’ve made this since day one, and I can’t change it,” he says) and, in winter, Beef Bourguignon (“This exemplifies what I do—recreate a classic without messing with it too much”) anchor the menu. Seasonally evolving dishes may include a Rack of Lamb with Ratatouille Tatin —roasted tomato, eggplant caviar, and natural reduction—and Bouillabaisse-Poisson with crustaceans, orange, saffron, tomato, and rouille pain grillé.
Pastry Chef Carolanne Vann creates sweets to complement Paskewitz’s savories. Desserts include Crêpe Gâteau with buttercream, Grand Marnier pastry cream, powdered caramel, hot fudge, and candied orange peel; and Pot de Crème topped with roasted marshmallow and orange. “We’re not trying to push the envelope too much,” notes Paskewitz.
The cuisine’s theme of “updated classics” extends to the bar offerings as well, where Bar Manager Arunas Bruzas has created a compact menu featuring such standouts as an Old Fashioned made with Old Forester bourbon, cold-smoked vanilla bean, and lavender. He has also constructed a 150-bottle-strong, French-heavy wine list that spans both the Old and New Worlds.
Lincoln Parkers love their Sunday brunch and The Blanchard delivers. Don’t expect scrambled eggs and bacon, however; Paskewitz is doing things his way. “It’s not breakfast-y at all,” says the chef. “There’s a diner down the block if people want that.” Instead, he treats brunch-goers to dishes like Oeuf à la Florentine, his riff on Eggs Benedict with grilled English muffins, sauteed spinach, poached eggs, Mornay sauce, and blanched potatoes that have been pan-fried in duck fat. Even the Bloody Mary gets kicked up, with lardon and black peppercorn-infused vodka, tangy housemade giardiniera, and citrus.
Now, a little over a year in, Paskewitz reflects on The Blanchard’s many successes, which, in addition to the Jean Banchet and James Beard long-list nods, include the title of Chicago magazine’s Best New Restaurant and top honors in the Chicago Tribune Dining Awards.
“Did I know that it was going to be a good restaurant? Of course,” he says. “Was I expecting all of this? Not at all. It’s been surreal.”
By Carly Boers
Note: This article was featured as the cover story in our Winter 2016 issue, which is still on newsstands at locations throughout Chicago, including Barnes & Nobles and Walgreens. Our Spring 2017 issue will be hitting stands this week, so stay tuned for more restaurant news, fresh recipes, and chef highlights.
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