One of the best parts about warmer weather is new, lighter wines to go along with it. They pair well with patio sitting and all the new spring menu items in our favorite restaurants. And one of those restaurants, Geja’s Cafe {340 West Armitage Avenue; 773.281.9101}, is highlighting spring wines from all over the world for their “Back to the Roots” festival.
It’s a three-month festival (going on now!) that highlights wineries abiding by principles of sustainable, organic, and biodynamic practices in an effort to preserve the land for future generations. Wine Director Blake Farnsworth gave us the lowdown on sustainable wines, wines for spring, and lots more about … well, wine.
Photo Courtesy of the Chicago Reader
DiningOut: Tell us what we can expect from the festival.
Blake Farnsworth: This festival will feature almost 20 wines that all practice either organic or biodynamic principles. The organic movement is becoming just as big in wine as it is in food and it is time to get the word out. While many vineyards have been utilizing these standards for more than a century, a great number are just starting to realize the benefits of ‘green’ practices. With this festival, we hope to showcase this field of winemaking, both the old and newcomers alike, while also proving that these wines are easily accessible to all.
What makes a wine organic?
An organic wine is simply a wine made from grapes grown in a vineyard that excludes the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides. Think all natural composting and manure fertilizers combined with natural pesticides such as sulfur.
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What makes a wine “biodynamic?”
Biodynamic farming is based on the same principals as organic farming. In addition to the elimination of any chemicals and synthetic fertilizers, it is extended to use homeopathic mixtures applied according to lunar phases. It is more about the vineyard and everything on it working as one spiritual being.
How does this affect the taste?
While organic and biodynamic wines do not necessarily have an extreme effect on the flavor profile of a wine, one will definitely notice more freshness and added structure in the wine’s profile compared to their counterparts.
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What are some great wine varietals for spring?
Any bright and fresh rosé, such as the Valle Reale Rosé featured on the roots festival, is perfect for spring in Chicago.
For a nice white, I prefer the light and delicate flavors of a good Muscadet; one of my favorite producers is Domaine de la Pepiere.
And what foods should we pair them with?
A pear and arugula salad with candied walnuts and raspberry vinaigrette with a glass of rosé is the first pairing I think of when I think spring. Just make sure the rosé has enough acidity to stand up to the vinaigrette.
What is the best white wine to order if you want to be a little more adventurous?
I would have to say Montinore Estate’s Gewurztraminer out of Willamette Valley would take the cake here. Unlike any Gewurztraminer I have tasted, this is a lighter, more tart version of this usually heavy and spicy wine.
And the best red?
The Heinrich Red Blend out of Austria drinks like a funky red Burgundy. This lighter bodied red starts off slightly tart and fruit-forward, but transitions to notes of cherry cola, coffee, and tobacco on the finish. Plus, one of the main grapes is Blaufränkisch, which is just fun to pronounce.
Photo Courtesy of Time Out
Your restaurant is famous for fondue. What is a good varietal to pair with fondue?
I like to pair different varietals to different courses of our fondue because each course is vastly different from the other. We actually offer several different wine pairing options as well as over 40 wines by the glass for this reason.
My personal favorite for our Gruyère cheese fondue is the Balthasar Ress Kabinett Riesling. The subtle sweetness and crisp acidity act as a nice contrast to the rich and sharp cheese. For the entrée, I prefer the bright fruit and silky tannins of Vietti’s Barbera d’Asti. It is light enough to play well with the seafood and lighter sauces, but has enough backbone to complement the aged beef tenderloin as well as the richer sauces.
Although big reds and Ports are usually the go-to for chocolate and wine pairing, I prefer a nice glass of bubbles with our Belgian Chocolate Fondue. Gloria Ferrer, out of Sonoma County, makes a very nice Brut Cuvee to pair with chocolate.
By Kaleigh Glaza | Online Editor
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