Humble Beginnings
Jagmohan Jayara says a handful of Indian restaurants existed in Chicago when he emigrated from India in the 1980s. As a chef’s son who certainly knew his way around a kitchen, Jayara’s path seemed clear. “I looked around and thought, ‘Let’s change a few things about Indian food here,’” he recalls.
In 1993, he did exactly that and launched India House in Schaumburg, Ill. “I did it all alone—no partners, just a great staff,” he adds. “It was tough, but we really succeeded.”
Twenty-five years later, that success is evident as the purveyor of nuanced Northern Indian cuisine has undergone a steady expansion and is known to pack in everyone from power-lunchers to bachelorette parties.
The Sweet Taste of Success
The original Schaumburg location is now a thriving banquet and catering facility. Jayara also maintains additional banquet halls, a Hoffman Estates location of India House {721 West Golf Road, Hoffman Estates; 847.278.0760} and a separate Indo-Chinese concept called Bombay Chopsticks {721 West Golf Road, Hoffman Estates; 847.380.5775}. “In India, Chinese food is very popular and people prefer it much spicier than is customary here in the States,” he explains. Bombay Chopsticks caters to those with a taste for heat. The menu is also devoid of pork and beef, as these two proteins are absent from most diners’ diets in India. “It’s been incredibly busy,” Jayara says of the decade-old concept, noting that he’ll open a second location in Naperville in March 2019.
With seating for 187 and an ultra-popular lunch buffet, India House’s tastefully appointed Chicago restaurant {59 West Grand Avenue, Chicago; 312.645.9500} manages to feel like a respite from the River North hustle. In the evening, it takes on a celebration-worthy, fine-dining ambience. A full bar features 60 wines by the bottle and 50 by the glass, while specialty cocktails include a Tamarind Whisky Sour, a Gin and Tonic with fresh cilantro, and the rum-spiked Tipsy Mango Lassi. A private dining space—great for hosting corporate events, birthday parties, and even the occasional wedding reception—accommodates 50 and offers a separate catering menu.
Jayara says India House has become Chicagoland’s largest event caterer. As the executive chef, he does most of the cooking for big events at the restaurant. Of course, he always finds ways to sprinkle in some TLC—whether he’s serving 25 at a holiday party or upwards of 4,000 conference attendees.
An Epic Buffet
Midday, the Chicago location maintains a casual vibe, luring a crowd seven days a week (11am-2:30pm, Monday through Friday; 11:30am-3pm, Saturday and Sunday) for its beloved lunch buffet. The all-you-can-eat, 20-item smorgasbord costs $14.95 and rotates daily, but always includes familiar favorites such as Butter Chicken or Chicken Tikki Masala, plus lesser-known must-tries, like Spicy Goat Curry. Come in on Friday, and you may be lucky enough to score the coveted Fried Shrimp. Additionally, vegetarians are in luck as they offer eight selections in addition to salads and soups. Desserts—Mango Kulfi (ice cream), Rasmalai (cheese dumplings in milk syrup), and Gulab Jamun (doughnuts in a sugar syrup)—round out the spread.
To supplement the feast, bottomless housemade Naan is delivered straight from the oven to the table and sizzling Tandoori Chicken arrives in a hot skillet. Predictably, the space is always buzzing, but don’t be deterred. With many office workers looking to get in and out in about a half hour, wait times are no longer than 5-10 minutes.
On weekends, the kitchen ventures into Southern Indian fare with expanded offerings, including Idli (savory rice cakes) and Vada (flour-based, deep-fried snacks). Plus, a live chef station turns out freshly-made Chaat (cracker-like crisps) and other delectable delights.
Still Cooking
Though his empire is self-built, Jayara is quick to credit its prosperity to his loyal, long-standing staff. In addition to two downtown managers who have been with the company for 15 years, there are current employees who were a part of the original team a quarter of a century ago. “I always say if you work at India House for three months, then you’re staying with us for a long time,” Jayara admits.
It’s also a family affair at this restaurant. Jayara’s son (26) and daughter (24) have worked on and off at their father’s restaurant since they both were 16. Moreover, the staff includes 15 cousins in the family, some of which are “cousins of cousins,” Jayara chuckles.
“We’ve been successful for 25 years. That’s a long time for a restaurant.” It’s a true testament to the seemingly tireless work ethic of chef and his dynamic team. He maintains residences in both the city and suburbs and bounces between his restaurants and their special events daily. “After this next opening [in March], we have reached capacity,” he concludes. “I’m not as young as I used to be. At one point, I would work at five different places in a day. Now, I can only maybe work at two.” If that’s his definition of slowing down, then his fans can breathe easy because there’s no end in sight for Jayara’s illustrious career at India House.
By Carly Boers
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