As an accomplished chef and seasoned traveler, Chef Satoru “Také” Takeuchi has worked in countries from Vietnam to Luxembourg, honing his extraordinary talent for executing international flavors with fine precision. His current role? Executive chef at NoMI Kitchen at the Park Hyatt Chicago, where he offers a reinvigorated menu founded upon French-inspired American cuisine. DiningOut recently spoke with Chef Také about his global experience, his new position at NoMI Kitchen, and his surprising take on Japanese cuisine.
DO: In what ways has your upbringing in Japan influenced your love of food?
Chef Také: Although I grew up in Nagoya, a city in the middle of Japan between Tokyo and Osaka, I have always felt more comfortable eating Western food than Japanese food. That’s actually what prompted me to start working at a French restaurant. I gained most of my experience cooking Asian cuisine when I worked in kitchens in Vietnam, Macau, and Malaysia. Now my palate is more open to Japanese food.
Is there a family member or friend who helped foster your passion for cooking?
Not really. I started working part-time for a restaurant when I was 20 years old, and one of the chefs there had the greatest influence on me. As a hotel chef, he was classically trained in French cooking. After that experience, I started working in French restaurants in Tokyo and in my hometown.
“I’m incorporating Korean flavors and adding new Japanese sashimi dishes while staying true to the French techniques that my cooking style is grounded upon.”
Where did you learn the techniques of fine French cooking?
I learned a lot about French cuisine from all the chefs who I worked with in Japan and Europe. After working in French restaurants in Japan, I decided to go to France—my plan was to stay for five years—to see what the food was really like. I wanted to learn about the regional foods of France and become immersed in one of the most famous cuisines in the world.
You have worked for restaurants all over the world. What are some things you have learned from these experiences?
Different countries have different cultures and standards, but they have all incorporated each other’s cultures in their food. I noticed a lot of Asian cuisines have origins in Chinese food. For example, soy sauce is originally from China, but it is becoming a staple ingredient in Japanese cuisine. In fact, since the 17th century, Japan has been exporting soy sauce to Europe and China as a specialty ingredient. Malaysian food is heavily influenced by the cuisines of China and India, which is a result of its location between the two countries and its history of trading with them.
What is one of your favorite recent memories of working in an international kitchen?
I had a great time in Macau because I met a lot of people from all over the world. We were always getting employees from different countries, so that taught me how to work with people from different cultures. I also just love walking through the streets and experiencing a country—not as a tourist, but as a native would.
After such an extensive experience abroad, what drew you to Chicago? And to NoMI Kitchen in particular?
I think the main reason I wanted to come to Chicago was because I had never been to the U.S. before, and I wanted to experience a different place and a different culture. I had been working with the Hyatt for 13 years and I wanted to stay with them, which is why I chose to come to NoMI Kitchen.
Wagyu Tomahawk for Two
How have you molded the menu at NoMI Kitchen to fit your culinary persona?
I’m still working on that. I enjoy bringing my extensive culinary experience of Asian and international flavors to the menu. For example, I’m incorporating Korean flavors and adding new Japanese sashimi dishes while staying true to the French techniques that my cooking style is grounded upon.
What has been the most rewarding aspect of your work so far?
I love being able to travel for work. Many people want to travel but they have to use their vacation time to do so. I, on the other hand, can go to different countries for work. It’s a very unique aspect of my job.
What career path would you have chosen if you weren’t a chef?
Originally, I wanted to be a history professor, but I couldn’t attend the university I wanted. After that, I realized I needed money to live so I started working at a restaurant part-time. That’s when I realized how much I love to cook. It’s still so interesting to me how strongly history impacts food and its evolution.
If you could go on a food-centric vacation, where would you go?
There are so many countries I haven’t visited. Right now, I think I want to travel around the U.S. and experience the many different cultures and foods here.
—Interview by Tia Bogeljic
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